Sunday, April 9, 2017

Solo West Highland Way

Location: Scotland, UK
I am SaiChalam Puttagunta started my Journey 
The West Highland Way is one of the long-distance walk-in Scotland. It is 154.5 km (96.0 mi) long, starting from Milngavie north of Glasgow to Fort William in the Scottish Highlands. My plan was to have some my time and clear my head before my big day. Walking west highland way does the magic, makes me fit and I get to meet new people. So, that's how the plan got into my head. Once the bug was in my head I did some recon. From experience in hill walking and other activities I made a list of things I needed and took some advice from friends. All set to rock and roll.
Things needed:
  • Walking bag around 60 liters capacity with rain cover
  • Walking shoes and one spare
  •  Map and compass
  • First aid kit with blister pads
  • Head torch
  • Rain jacket and trousers
  • Waterproof jacket
  • Good walking socks
  • Gloves
  • Head cap
  • Midge spray and cover (people not familiar with Scottish midges please brace   for them in summer they are very nasty things)
  • Walking sticks
  •  Water (I prefer camel bag as it is easy to drink water)
  • Dry bags
  • Sleeping bag and tent (If camping)
  • Stove and gas
  • Soup packets
  •  Coffee/tea bags
  • Energy bars/cereal bars/chocolate bars (to keep the sugar levels high)
  • Easy to cook food
  • Spare clothes (1 or 2) and socks
  • Personal hygiene kit

I hope I have covered everything (Please check the video), once you pack accordingly your bag should weigh around 15-16 kg. I did come across people who were carrying 30 kg. It is more of a personal thing and strength. I made a similar mistake like packing more and I realised I packed everything as just in case. I realised that very late when I in walk, basically I was carrying just a dead weight. I came back with more than half of the stuff I was carrying. So, pack it in a sensible way. If you want to travel light I highly advice baggage transfer as it makes you enjoy more. I recommend Travellite.co.uk Company owned by Gilbert. They are friendly and really helpful as they can join you any part of the walk. There are other companies as well please feel free to explore. Need any more advice email me.
 Day 1, March 28 2017: Milngavie to Balmaha

My brother dropped me off at Milngavie and took some pictures at starting point and started my walk around 10:00. My plan is to cover around 3 miles per hour.
West highland way is a very well marked route there is no way any one can go off route at any point. Once I started walking was very high on my sugar levels and started walking very fast. You will walk alongside a Loch and come across many joggers and walkers. Just after few miles you should take steep up hill on right and continue the walk. Careful here I came across two American ladies along the way they got lost here and walked a mile further and realised they were on wrong route (no offence they were from America). Keep walking then you come across a small loch which will be busy in fishing season. You will see some nice wood cottages and some good wood artwork.
Starting point in Milngavie 1

Starting point in Milngavie 2 


After finishing Mile 1,2,3,4. I am getting excited about this trip by seeing the natural beauty.
Fishing loch
Wood cottages
Wood art work

Arlhaven cottage

En route from Arlhaven cottage





Dumgoyne hill dominates the route here
After few more miles Beech tree inn is a good place to refill the energy





After refiling water, I met Nick who is walking from John o groats to Lands’ end



Scottish water purification plant


Mile 10 post just before the uphill walk to Drymen camping site


Good sign posts to show the correct route


Drymen camping site very reasonable prices


Scenic view from top of Conic hill

Following then you go up hill and down hills. Then just before 5th mile mark you pass by Arlhaven cottage. Arlhaven cottage has been burnt down long time ago. Now it is getting rebuilt, at present with a small cabin a ranger serves free coffee and tea. When I was passing by ranger John with his dog, cat and pet fox welcomes everyone and gives advice on route. His great grand father was buried in my town Hyderabad, Telangana, India.
It was bit late to walk that night. So stayed back at Balmaha Oak tree Inn instead of Rowardennan.
Day 2, March 29 2017: Balmaha to Inveroran Ben Ghlas campsite
After good night sleep started around 8:30 am from Balmaha.

Started from Balmaha


Cashel Campsite, it has small suplly shop



Come across few friends in woods. Had some mushroom soup and refilled water in Rowardennan
Hidden Cottage in Loch Lomond

Loch Lomond

This place reminds me of some old memories when I walked Ben Lomond few years ago with my friends



A guy named Kewal sing was buried here. I tried to look up for him on internet I couldn't find any information
Manuel and Erik from Switzerland travelled here to walk WHW    
You will find several honesty boxes on your way. Donate around one pound and take the food and water. Had very good lunch at Inversnaid hotel (highly recommended for good food for price).
Famous Rob Roy's cave
Wood art work after Rob Roy's cave   

Met a family who took a boat ride from Alrdui to visit Rob Roy's cave
We cross over several well-built bridges. These bridges safely make us cross over the waterfalls

Famous Doune Bothy. Met Raul from Spain in Doune Bothy shared coffee. He is doing WHW and Great Glen way up to Inverness. He has trekked Annapurna in India and several other mountains in Europe     

Ben Ghlas camping farm site. It is very wonderful campsite where you sleep under Ben Ghlas waterfalls. From here you can access Drovers Inn a mile away, which does good food as well along with accommodation. Made my dinner in free kitchen and met few folk.

Day 3, March 30 2017: Inveroran Ben Ghlas camp site to Bridge of Orchy
Woke up early had my breakfast and geared up. Met up with mates from last night and on my way to Bridge of Orchy.
Starting on Ben Ghlas camp site
Two friends from Germany, Tim lives in Australia with his partner who is Indian from Bangalore and Tim loves Bollywood. He knows better about Bollywood than me, and his friend Moritz is a doctor in Germany. Very friendly people.

View from behind the Ben Ghlas campsite    



Tunnel we should walk through just before Crainlarich. Met a lady from Manchester she says she not really fit but managing to finish the way. This makes me feel that anybody can do it. From what I have seen I think there is always a male sheep guarding a group of female sheep.  Suns been in and out for a while. Now and then always take a second to look around the beauty. People say if you go into Crainlarich town you can skip some uphill. I say you miss the beauty if you do that and some good views. Between Ben ghlas and Cairnlarich. There lot of cow shit be careful Unless you want a face plant into cow shit.
Paco and Daniel from Spain in Edinburgh walking from Drymen to Tyndrum

Smell of oak and pine tress is pleasant and cheerful

View of Ben more, Stob Binnein and Cruach Ardrain

View of Ben Lui, Beinn Dubhcraig and Beinn Chuirn        

The Loch of the Lost Sword


Image of the Robert the Bruce Sword

Lunch stop at Tyndrum, nice food bit expensive but good place. As it got award for best fish and chips for few years may be the prices are high. Name of the food place is "real food cafe", any one up for chocolate fish and chips. Yes, then this place is highly recommended. There is a nice camp site next time it a very reasonable price.


Nice Hobbit pods in Bridge of Orchy. They look good and cheap price, they were not in use when i was there due to renovation works


Jackie and James miller owners of stance cottage. History of stance cottage. Drovers from highlands use to keep the herds in the stances and pay this cottage for using the cottage so the name stance cottage. Lovely couple they weren't open until this weekend, but I asked them so nicely and they made some room to me. They knocked off some money as I said I will use my own food and sleeping bag. They are going to install new drying machine where you can hang your stuff and dry which look better than tumble dryer. They were so nice as they gave me a banana, apple and orange, crisp, water and sandwich for my way for free. Usually they charge £6.00. Please email them for bookings by using this email: stancecottagebandb@gmail.com or call this number  07500904502
Day 4, 31 March 2017: Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven
Started my journey to Kinlochleven. Weather was so bad, its had rained all day.
Started walking in rain
Met some wild Deers


Forest guest house. Last place to refill and stop for next 9 miles before reaching Kings house or Glencoe ski center.


Beautiful Rannoch moor



Mighty Buachaille etive mor with famous black cottage

Me and Mighty Buachaille etive mor        



Met Ole, Vanessa from Germany. We all reached to black water lodge. It's a perfect place to stay. Highly recommended        



Day 4.5 1 April 2017: Kinlochleven to Fort William
Reached early made some nice dinner and took good rest
Started my last leg to Fort William


 Officially reached the West Highland Way finish point

Finishing my West Highland way next to sore feet statue

Me and sore feet statue

My mates Vamsi and Raghu came by to pick me up

Things I learned in my journey, On right time sun comes out and cloud clears off then you will admire the beauty of nature.Only one thing rings in my head how am I gonna look at Everest. 
Nature teaches you science in a very best way. You clearly see hot air raises and cold air goes down. Right in front of your naked eye. It's so good to see a mom sheep and baby sheep was passing by me. Father sheep far away saw me and started to keep an eye for them. Now a days Animals are much better than humans.
When there are heard of sheep when they see stranger they give an alarm sound just like an "Intruder alert". So funny  to see that. 
Wilderness and solitude is so good that you come to know about yourself and your body a lot. You will admire the beauty around you and know how small things can teach you a lot. For instance you can see foot steps and bike steps and other things around you and you can think who they can be. You will come to read the clouds movement and expect the weather and you definitely try to beat the black clouds which can bring rain. 
Some routes don't end and you wish they don't end. Some times you talk to yourself and discuss so many stupid things. Things you could have done in a better way in your life.
Your will come to admire the conservation measures take by Scottish highlands and you will see how they grow and cut the trees. 

As always like all good stories this wonderful journey has come to an end with beautiful memories to me.

1 comment:

  1. I love this Sai, I hoped I'd get a chance to read it. Congratulations when your wedding day comes.

    ReplyDelete